Sailing in the Aegean 2019
On the 30th June - the day after Pascale's last day at school ever - we flew to Kos with Isabelle, Julia and Tudor to pick up our charter yacht, a Hanse 40e ("e" is for "epoxy sandwich" construction which apparently saves lots of weight) from Istion Yachting.
Day 1: Kos to Kalymnos 20nm
We left Kos later than we wanted due to a piece of luggage not turning up. It turns out it never left Vienna because of a "suspicious item" which turned out to be the CO2 canisters in a life jacket. We had to make do without the 3 bottles of wine that were there too.
Once we were out of the shelter of the Turkish coast the NE winds increased to about 6bf and we had all 3 reefs in the main and only half the jib. The katabatic winds accelerate down the leeward slope and the islands, so even close to the shore there was no shelter at all. This was new to me.
We anchored in the bay north of Kalymnos town, unfortunately close to a beach bar where a wedding was about to happen. Loud techno music all afternoon, followed by live Greek music and fireworks all night, then barking dogs at dawn kept, meant a pretty sleepless night. We swung quite wildly on the anchor chain in the strong winds.
Day 2: Kalymnos to Levitha 26nm
Very pleasant sailing in 3-4bf heading due west. Took in one reef later as wind strengthened. Moored in beautiful bay on south coast with 10+ other boats. All were sick on the crossing except Pascale and me.
Walked to a super little taverna 1/2 km away for some fantastic local fare.
Day 3: Levitha to Amorgos
Very little wind to start but eventually had some fine close hauled sailing in 3-4bf. Reached the very steep rocky north-east coast of Amorgos before having to tack a couple of times to get round to the north coast. Wind dropped and had to motor a long way in big horrible swell which caused more sickness.
Anchored after 6pm in Katapola bay.
Day 4: Amorgos
Rented car to visit the island and its monastery. Perfect lunch in the perfect village of Choro.
Day 5: Amorgos to Skhoinoussa
Disaster today as we discovered diesel had been leaking from the reserve canister into the storage box in the cockpit. Spent hours cleaning. Our travel bags stinking and ruined.
Motored to a lovely bay on the tiny island of Gramoussa at the western tip of Amorgos for a swim then perfect sail north to Nisos Agrilos for another swim in beautiful bay. Pascale even jogged along the beach.
The wind dropped so we had to motor in search of a bay for the night. Looked at 2 bays on Iraklia but there was too much swell so headed east to Skhoinoussa and a small harbour. Put a stern line ashore and had a peaceful night.
Day 6: Skhoinoussa to Naxos
Set sail for southern tip of Naxos. Wind veered from south to NE but dropped so we motored much of it. After a short swim stop set sail up the east coast of Naxos to a nice sheltered bay at Panormos where we dropped anchor for the night.
Day 7: Naxos to Donousa
Anchored for the night in Kedros bay on Donousa. Walked over to Donousa village for some supplies. Ate local goat stew with a spinach-like vegetable called horta.
Day 8: Donousa to Ikaria 40nm
Set off early for long crossing to Ikaria where we were to leave the boat and get a ferry to Patmos.
The first 20nm was perfect sailing in 5bf. Then the wind came and went, eventually picking up very strong from NE. Were not making much progress so motor sailed heavily reefed. Wind gauge showed 32kt gusts. It was very hot and the sea very disturbed. Isabelle and Julia quite sick. Very tiring crossing.
Patmos
Pascale and I got the ferry to Patmos the next day. We had a wonderful stay there. I even read my first biblical text since this is where St John the Theologian or the Revelator wrote down his apocalypse - entertaining stuff!
