Covid Sailing in Croatia
The annual Vienna International Sailing Club autumn sail was supposed to have 8 boats with 6 crew each but due to Covid we were only 5 boats with 4 crew. But the enjoyment was still there.
It takes 7-8 hours to drive from Vienna to Split. Most of it is very pleasant especially the large forested areas in their autumn colours around the Velebit National Park. This chain of mountains is quite impressive and marks a definite divide between the forests in the north and the dry scrub in the south, along with a notable change in temperature. This is also where some of the highest winds in the Mediterranean are recorded.
This year we had a fleet of 5 Hanse 445 yachts from the Russian-owned operator Vishe Radugi. It is quite incredible the number of charter companies and yachts operating in this area. No sign of poverty on the coast here!
The boats were a bit challenging - very hard to raise and lower the mainsail and furl the jib for example. Some of the usual charter problems with cheap slippery ropes or stiff salt-encrusted ropes. Bent and loose stanchions were also an issue.
Day 1: Kaštela to Maslinica on the island of Šolta
The morning started with a hunt for the baker! We could smell the bread but couldn't find it without the help of some locals. It was in the basement of an apartment block without any signs.
Not much wind so the idea of a race was abandoned, but it was quite pleasant sail across. Previously we had moored inside the harbour, but now so many big fat catamarans and gin palaces are tied up there for the winter, we had to dock on the outside wall.
The bay faces due west so they must get this sort of view every evening:
Day 2: Maslinica to Rogoznica
A Jugo wind (southerly) was forecast for today and due to increase above 25 knots later. So the planned crossing to Vis was altered to head NW towards Rogoznica. A few waypoints were set in order to have a race, though without a fixed start time.
We decided to test the gennaker and got it up after a couple of attempts. Then the wind suddenly increased considerably so it was quickly lowered and fished out of the water. The last few miles to Rogoznica were under motor in an increasing wind.
We moored on the town quay opposite the large Marina Frapa with its huge ugly yachts and oligarch motor launches.
Had excellent red snapper large enough for 5 of us in Antonio's restaurant on the quay.
Day 3: Rogoznica to Šibenic
The wind was pretty strong all night and still blowing hard so we waited in the bay until after lunch before setting off with 2 reefs in and half a jib. The sailing was good but by the time we got to the channel leading to Šibenik it was pissing down and the wind dropped. Moored right in the middle of the town quay, which is one of the pleasures of sailing at this time of year in Croatia.
Day 4: Šibenic to Primošten
We abandoned the race after being overtaken by Stephan and crew on Okhotnik and headed for a bay on the SW coast of Žirje for lunch and a swim.
Enjoyed the perfect sail back east to Primošten with the sun setting behind us.
Day 4: Primošten to Trogir
Left late after John got a mooring line wrapped around the bow thruster. Note to self: don't use bow thrusters until all lines dropped to bottom!
Perfect wind for a gennaker race today, but sadly we lost it to Dario and crew! It was twisted on first attempt, then got caught on spreaders while gybing. Needs more practice!
Trogir is a lovely small town with well-worn stone pavements and at this time of year, no tourists. The channel leading up to the town is stuffed full of marinas. Thousands upon thousands of boats here - so much money that some people have...
Day 5: Trogir to Kaštela
Absolutely no wind today. Sea like a mirror so there was no hurry to leave. We motored all the way back with a stop for lunch and swim just opposite the marina in Kaštela.
All in all a very pleasant week with friends. Hopefully the memories will tide us all over the coming Covid lockdown and curfew.
Some lessons I need to learn:
- make more of an effort to record the trip, including daily write up of a logbook, GPS tracking, re-setting the trip log daily etc.
- make sure all mooring lines have sunk before using bow thruster
- always replace winch handle in holder before doing anything else
- check details of holding tank and make sure it is working correctly (ours was blocked from previous charter and we never noticed)
- get a laptop or tablet with a better battery life
- learn how to use the handheld Garmin properly