4 Weeks Cycling the European Divide Trail

The trail was put together by a chap called Andy Cox who admits it is not a geographical divide like the American one which follows the watershed down the western side of the country, but more of a route crossing the many cultural, economic, political and environmental divides in Europe, starting from the very north of Finland to the very southern tip of Portugal.

We chose a section that was easy to get to and from and would last around 4 weeks. The northernmost part of Denmark was a good place to start, with anywhere near Geneva being the planned end as we could get flights and trains from there.

We flew into Aalborg, unfortunately too late for food and beer! Everything shuts before 10pm and the streets were empty. A train the next day took us up to the northernmost point of Skagen where we got a decent lunch in the sunshine before hitting the trail.

Since I am writing this almost a year after the fact, relying on memories, photos and some audio recording I made, it will be brief and only record some highlights for future reference.

Denmark

My memories of Denmark are of pleasant cycle trails through forests. Lots of Christmas tree plantations. Empty towns - it felt like there was either strict lockdown in place or a nuclear holocaust. Lots of pretty thatched buildings. Very hard to find coffee and cake to keep us energised. Mostly cold winds. Long thin Danish flags on every single house just in case we forgot which country we were in. No shortage of decent campsites with good facilities.

Day 1 : 67km Skagen to Hirtshals.

Pleasant trails through forests and sand dunes. Nice campsite overlooking the North Sea at the end of the day. Cold and windy though.

Day 2 : 90km down the East coast to Slettestrand

The GPS track took us down to the beach which was a big mistake. Heavily laden bikes and soft sand do not mix. Then a mix of tarred and gravel roads through forests. Eventually we did end up on the beach for about 10km on much harder sand though with lots of cars driving along too. Still cold.

We were refused entry into a posh hotel right below the campsite on the coast so had to cycle back 5km to find a place to eat. No such things as shops, bars or cafes.

Day 3 : 109km due south to Viborg

Quite a lot of the trail was an old railway track. A bit boring but at least no cars. Cold. Green cow country. Given it's daylight at about 3:30 and the birds start singing, sleep was not long enough. A fox stole our milk and muesli overnight.

Day 4 : 97km due south to Jelling

Still impossible to get coffee and cake. Nice ride through forests and farmland. Renting the hut was cheaper than 3 tents. Managed to wash our clothes.

Day 5 : 122km to Aabenraa

Very green farmland with lots of hidden piggeries. Got suddenly warmer today.

Day 6 : 87km well into Germany!

We crossed the border without realising it but knew there was something different as there were plenty people around walking, cycling, sailing and generally enjoying themselves. Flensburg was very nice with a harbour full of interesting sailing ships. The fjord looks wonderful for sailing.

Day 7 : 84km to Bad Bramstedt

Usual mixture of pleasant farmland with lovely old brick farmhouses. Easily found coffee and large cream cakes - good to be in Germany!

Day 8 : 99km through Hamburg

Long forest route into Hamburg. Plenty water there with luxury villas in the north. The south side of the city just went on and on through abandoned industrial sites and docklands, but eventually things became green again. Cold and windy.

Day 9 : 71km past Soltau

So much forest and moorland. Very pretty but sometimes tiring on sandy paths, though some nice quiet country roads thrown in. Shortest day so far.

Day 10 : 96km to Hannover

Day 11 : 76km south west of Hamburg.

First hill of the trip, albeit only 360m but it was a challenge. Change of scenery with wooded hills.

Day 12 : 91km past Paderborn military area

Vast expanse of unfarmed green area on cobbled roads. A few burnt out tanks on view. Surprisingly peaceful and pleasant.

Day 13 : 72km west to Amecke

Sunday - all shops shut! Hot and hilly with sandy tracks so didn't get as far as expected.

Day 14 : 85km to Köln

Got on train at Bergisch Gladbach in order to avoid the unpleasantly busy city suburbs.

Day 15 : 64km to Denntal

Got train out of town to place called Brühl. Expected to stay in the Ahr valley but discovered that it was all completely flooded last year with many deaths and much destruction.

Day 16 : 72km to the Mosel

Past the Nürburg racing track and continued on way down to the Mosel valley.

Day 17 : 62km south to Kirn

Long slog out of the river valley. Mostly on roads all and very hot. Getting very tired.

Day 18 : 60km to Kaiserslautern

Day 19 : 71km to Dambach in France

We had a beautiful cycle through forest, so in the shade. Lovely long descent to France. Had to cycle 5km downhill from campsite to restaurant, but at least good French food!

Day 20 : 80km to Dabo in the Vosges

Very hot along plain to Saverne, then a pleasant short stretch along the Marne-Rhein canal, then lots of uphill and an unfortunate final downhill to our AirBnB.

Day 21 : 82km more Vosges

Too many trees to see a view. Over 1000m for the first time. Toughest day yet. Lots of rocky pushing, then long downhill to St Dié des Vosges (ugly) to nice campsite a few kilometres further.

Day 22 : 69km over the Vosges to St Maurice-sur-Moselle

Hardest day yet. Miserable little town. Pissed down just after got tents up. Luckily there was one restaurant open for steak and Gewurztraminer.

Day 23 : 39km over the Ballon des Vosges to Belfort

On tarred road all the way with a bit of rain on the hill. Fairly busy roads going it to Belfort, which is quite ugly.

Got train the next day to Geneva then Alasdair to airport and me train to Vienna.

Some Lessons to Learn

I am writing this months after having done the trip and relying on voice recordings, some of which were made while riding, so all I can hear is wind! Make more of an effort to make a daily recording at the end of each day!

Make sure to download all GPX files and maps before trip. I hadn't downloaded the French maps to my Sigma which complicated navigation.